I arrived early afternoon. Joe instructed me to load some tools onto a cart and we ascended 25 floors to his condominium. I groaned because I never know what I'm going to find...and I always have to return to the van for additional tools. The parking garage was 25 floors down and a block away !! But that's life in the big city (Big Apple). After 3 hours- one door was fixed and I had figured out what was needed to fix the second door-about two hours of intermittent Sawzall use (noisy reciprocating saw). It was Joe's turn to groan because other residents would be returning home soon. Therefore we had to stop work for the day. I brought my overnight bag into the guest room, made dinner and looked out at the Statue of Liberty and at the Staten Island ferry coursing back and forth.
The problem was...what it always is-not enough clearance, but with a twist! <:d) Five years earlier, Joe remodeled; and selected expensive frame and panel doors of solid cherry-for hinged doors and pocket doors. The contractor used prefabricated pocket door framing from the Johnson Hardware Company. These engineered kits with steel studs provide a very narrow pocket. But after a few years this bathroom pocket door had warped. In my opinion (after twenty years of furniture repair) warpage is going to occur even with kiln-dried wood. Factories do not split logs (like Colonial craftsmen did in order to observe which way the grain is running through the wood). Factories only use saws and saws cut wood irrespective of the grain. Once a cabinet door, a cabinet panel or a house door is assembled and glued...there is a possibility of the wood moving-even shrinking or warping.
Late in this first work session, I had spent 90 minutes crouched on the floor of a clothes closet-which shared a common wall with the bathroom pocket door. Joe admitted to me that he had called his contractor when the pocket door first starting hitting something inside the pocket. The contractor's assistant had cut an inspection hole about the size of a legal sheet of paper (8.5" x 14"). I thought to myself...this is very fitting ...because Joe was a lawyer!! <:d) Here I was, a couple of years later trying to figure out what was going on and trying to figure out how the wall was built.
Through the opening, the young man probably saw the door was hitting a stud, because he excised the lower twelve inches of the stud. Then he rigged up a horizontal piece of wood to serve as a truss-trying to pull the remainder of the stud away from the warped door. I would guess this temporarily solved the problem, but when I looked at the poor truss it was shaped like a canoe (no longer straight-no longer having any good effect). And I would be up the creek without a paddle if I could not solve this man's problem!!
In the morning, Joe called the downstairs neighbor-who was gracious and said that I could use my Sawzall as much as was needed. I secured the top 12" of the metal stud to protect its ability to support the overhead pocket door track. I located about 10 hidden screws in order to unfasten the remaining 6 feet of the metal stud. Then I clamped the stud to the plywood wall (in order to dampen vibration). My plan was to cut the stud out incrementally-in six sections, one at a time and withdraw it through the opening It's a lot of work to crouch in a closet and use a reciprocating saw to cut metal studs, but at least we turned on the air conditioning.
When the last remnant of the stud was withdrawn from the "hole in the wall", I tried the pocket door and invited Joe to do the same. He smiled. We had been successful. An hour later I was standing on the sidewalk loading my tools from the dolly into my van and looking for the Holland Tunnel to do some errands in NJ before heading for Boston. I couldn't believe that I had managed to fix that door!
Why do I call this an itinerant repairer trip "by the book?" Because it went according to plan; a great customer with a need found this page, lodged me, as well as my vehicle, in the middle of the city and we choreographed a successful repair.